Istanbul simply fascinates, like any other huge metropole. But beyond the fascination it provokes by its immensity, by its history, and even politics and recent events, it also lends itself to a more downbeat, calm contemplation, should the visitor stay off the beaten track. Then a lot of it seems homey and inviting. So it seemed on my second Istanbul visit. Granted a local guide in Fritzi, we went out to explore the other side – small streets to get lost in Beyoglu, small cafés and sweet houses in Üsküdar, topped up with a day-trip to the Prince Islands. And what I remember best from it all are the colors and the feelings. Missing her no more.